Amaryllis     

Growing amaryllis (Hippeastrum) at Home

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

The common name amaryllis applies to the species and hybrids botanically known as Hippeastrum. This was not always the case. At one time hundreds of plants were included under the name Amaryllis, from both the old and new world. Debate over Hippeastrum puniceum as the 'original' Amaryllis defined by Linnaeus continued to swirl until ruled on by an international body of botanical nomenclature in 1952. Currently only one species, Amaryllis belladonna of South Africa is recognized within the genus; it is typically cultivated outdoors in Mediterranean climates under common names such as “naked ladies,” "March lily," or “Belladonna lily.” Due to the long-standing popularity of Hippeastrum species and hybrids as houseplants and garden subjects worldwide, the old common name amaryllis has remained with them. The 80 or so species of Hippeastrum hail from the American tropics, with Brazil marking the epicenter of their distribution.

HOW DO I MAKE IT GROW?

Amaryllises are often given as holiday gifts during the winter months, as either bare-root bulbs or in kits including pots and soil media. These bulbs have typically been grown in the Netherlands, South Africa, Israel, or Brazil and prepared in such a way that they will produce flowers within weeks of being received. While many people dispose of the plants after the show is over, it is quite possible to re-grow the plant for bloom in subsequent years.

STARTING OUT

Upon receipt of a bulb, it is best to pot it up immediately; however it may be stored for several weeks at cool (50-60 deg. F) temperatures. The more live, fleshy roots attached to the bulb the better; they will enable the plant to take water from the soil, not exhausting the bulb itself. Dry, dead roots should be clipped off. It is essential to provide your amaryllis with a pot and soil that ensures both good drainage and snug quarters. Most commercially prepared potting soils will suffice; if they are very high in organic matter a little extra clean sand, perlite, or vermiculite may be mixed in to increase soil drainage. A clay or ceramic pot will offer more counterweight for the top-heavy plants, but plastic will work just fine as far as the plant is concerned. Terra cotta pots are often best for new bulbs,as they permit more oxygen to the developing root-zone, and reduces chances of over-watering during establishment. Choose a pot about 2-3” larger in diameter than the bulb itself. A shard of clay or other material may be placed over the drainage hole to prevent soil from washing out until the roots are established. Partly fill the pot with soil and place the bulb in the pot. Fill in around the bulb with soil such that the soil line is about an inch below the pot rim and the top 1/3 or so of the bulb is above the soil line. The practice of keeping the “neck” of the bulb well above the soil line prevents diseases associated with moisture at the growing point.

BRING ON THE FLOWERS!

Now that your bulb is potted, give it a drink of water to settle the soil around the bulb. Place the pot in a warm location (ideally 68-80 deg. F) and water only after the top 1" or so of soil becomes dry. Cool temperatures and excess moisture not only discourages root initiation, but can lead to rotting of the bulb. Be patient! While some bulbs may already be sprouting upon purchase, others may take several weeks to commence growth. Whether bloom scapes (flower stems) or leaves emerge first, increase watering commensurate with growth, keeping the plant just moist through the flowering period. Bright light (including direct sun) and frequent turning of the pot will insure sturdy, straight scapes, otherwise staking may be required. Once flowering begins, the plant may be moved to a cooler location to help flowers last longer. Remove individual flowers after they fade, and cut the bloom scape to the neck of the bulb when the last flower is gone. Depending on bulb size and variety you may get two or more scapes, either simultaneously or over several weeks time.

CAN I GET IT TO BLOOM AGAIN?

Aftercare

When flowering has ceased and foliage is being produced it is time to build the strength of the plant for next year’s bloom. Regular watering is now coupled with fertilizing. Follow label directions on a fertilizer made for flowering houseplants, bearing in mind that over-feeding a plant without adequate sunlight can produce large, but weak leaves, and may damage the roots. Ideally the plants should be moved outdoors when cold weather has passed. Choose a spot in full sun or afternoon shade (depending on your climate). If possible, shield the pot from overheating by placing it within another slightly larger pot (the airspace creates a shaded insulation) or by partly burying the pot in the garden. This will buffer the roots from excessive heat and drying. You will be rewarded with a handsome plant bearing a fan of large strap-shaped leaves.

Programming for Re-bloom

As autumn approaches, withhold water and fertilizer. Many growers do this by placing the pot on its side. The leaves will (usually) slowly yellow and begin drying off. Before frost, bring the plant indoors and clean off remaining foliage (even if still green), trimming it to the neck. Re-pot at this time if necessary (usually every 2-3 years). Storing the bulb in a cool location (50-60 deg. F) will produce a semi-dormant state that allows flower scapes deep in the bulb to begin to grow, while foliage does not. After 2-3 months you may notice a bloom scape emerging from the bulb, but even if you don’t you may move the pot to a warmer location and give it an initial watering. As growth develops, move to a warm and bright location and increase watering as before. Before you know it, your winter doldrums will be brightened by the spectacular blooms of your own amaryllis!

Start out with a healthy, firm bulb. It should have some heft to it, and be free of soft or sunken spots. The more live, fleshy roots the better!

If you are able to comparison shop, look at the top of the bulb. Try to count the number of leaf bases that you see. The more leaves that grew last season, the more flower scapes you can expect. Most amaryllis produce one scape for every three or four leaves made.